Para eles, Allah e Deus.

October 22, 2016

Yesterday, I helped bury a man whom I’ve never seen before. The man leading the ceremony gave a eulogy listing a multitude of things he had accomplished in Pebane during his lifetime; most notably, he had worked at the local secondary school for nearly 10 years. This man would have been my colleague, had malaria not claimed his 35 year old body first. He left behind a family: a wife, two kids. Had I seen this man on my first day of classes, a small white hat would have adorned the crown of his head. The man I buried’s name was Abdul. He was Muslim.

As a small town boy from Alabama where Islam is not a topic openly (or ever) discussed, this funeral was my first tangible experience with the Islamic faith. The ceremony began at the house of the deceased. The women, seated further away from the house, sang songs in a language I could not understand. The men, seated on straw mats adjacent to the house, were silent.

When I arrived, my host dad ushered me to a spot at the rear of the crowd of somber men. Throughout the next hour, we waited. We waited quietly, solemnly. More community members came, sat down, and joined in the solidarity.

After some time had passed, my host father, a Christian pastor, leaned over to me and whispered in my ear, “para eles, Allah e Deus” loosely translated to mean, “For them, Allah is God.”

I’m not here to confirm or deny anyone’s religious beliefs. And, I’m not even completely sure that my host father meant the connotation that I drew from that sentence. (As I have lamented previously, my Portuguese is still not great yet.) What I can say is that I believe every person deserves the opportunity to live a life that they are comfortable with. A life that they want to live and that brings them happiness. And, to me, my father’s statement was so accepting of that idea. Even though they probably had very different perspectives and beliefs, my host father and other members of the community gathered together to mourn the loss of a beloved secondary school professor, who was valued, first, for his contributions to the community.

Next, several men brought out white cloth and began diligently preparing it. It appeared that they were cutting precise portions of the cloth, and, then, folding those delicate amounts of cloth into a desired pattern. The cloth was taken back into the house. Then, the body wrapped in this prepared white cloth was brought outside and put in the bed of an open back truck. At this point, everyone rose to their feet.

People stood together to respect the organic humanity this ceremony celebrated; to remember that, in the end, this man was a human being who was faced with his own mortality.

For me, it was a beautiful event. I realized that too often the media portrays jaded views of religious intolerance and the incapability of coexistence. Here, in Austral Africa, a small town of roughly 20,000 people showed me that the things that unite us as humans should be much stronger than those which separates us.

At Abdul’s final resting place, each of the men of the community – American, Mozambican, Christian, and Muslim alike – took the shovel, if only for a moment, to help cover the casket of their fallen friend with a little part of the Earth from which he came. A tree was placed where his head was. A few words were said in Arabic, and then there was a moment of silence at his sepulcher. In unison, everyone breathed in one final breath at his grave and departed.

It only took him 22 years

October 21, 2016

Upon arrival in Pebane yesterday, I was greeted by white sand and the gentle wave of palm trees bending underneath the rush of the ocean breeze. I had finally arrived at my home for the next two years. Ari’s host family added to the initial amazement Pebane brings by giving us coconuts to snack on after our 6-hour chapa ride from the closest city. After a little while, we took a sand rode to a water tower which was across the street from my host family’s white house with baby blue trim. My host dad is roughly 6 feet tall, a fairly large man by Mozambican standards. On first impression, his face reminded me of Morgan Freeman. Upon further consultation with the interwebs, I now believe that it was his nose that gave me this impression, because I don’t really think his other features resemble Mr. Freeman much at all.

My host dad is a pastor at the local church and preaches in the local language, Moniga, there. He ushered me into the little gazebo in the backyard where one of my 3 host brothers was sitting. My host father prayed before doing anything else. My Portuguese is still coming along, but I think the prayer was centered around giving thanks for safe travels.

Later that night, he called his wife who was still working on the farm to inform here that their (American) son had finally arrived. Translated loosely he said, “It only took him 22 years, but he is finally home.”

I don’t think he realized how much that simple sentence meant to me. In a single sentence, my host dad put to rest all the anxiety of not having a place to relax for the next two years. He made me feel as if integrating was going to come naturally. His words assured me that he was going to be there to guide me every step of the way. I felt safe. His smile gave me the freedom to feel like I could make mistakes here. Like I could grow here.

I’m not trying to say that it will be incredibly easy to adapt to this environment , but I am trying to express that I am so thankful to have a family to cushion this transition. The problem I am really having is finding a way to communicate to them how much I appreciate them with my lackluster Portuguese skills.

Mozambican Chart Topper

Pictured Above: #MozambicanChartToppers

Host Dads

Pictured Above: Ari and I with our Host Dads.Host mom

Pictured Above: My Host MomPebane Beach Life

Pictured above: My and Ari’s first trip to the beach. Also, I think our first roommate picture.

One Month In The Books

October 2, 2016

Okay. Admittedly, I have a lot to get through in this update.

1st this was a rollercoaster of a week for me! I had a good, a bad and a bad that turned out pretty okay kinda week.

First, the bad. (Duh-duh-duh) I had to do my 1st lesson this week on Meioses… in PORTUGUESE. To begin with, science is often difficult to explain in English; the difficulty only compounds with the language barrier. Secondly, I was told the week before while planning my lesson that it was a 10 minute lesson… On the day of my presentation, mere moments before presenting, I found out it was actually only a 5 minute lesson. Let’s recap. I’m explaining a somewhat difficult science topic in a foreign language (where I had to practice and memorize things I wanted to say to get all of the information across) and, now, I’m on a time crunch with said explanations and memorizations…. Long story short, my first lesson was whelming at best.

Second, the bad turned good. We had our first oral language exam this week. I was resting confident that I was going to do fairly well, since I was certain that I had been improving in Portuguese. I reviewed all of my verb tenses, rehearsed all of my newly acquired vocabulary, and recited some common phrases I was sure would buy me time to think during the interview. I showed up to a smiling staff member (who was very nice by the way), who, little did I know, was about to mentally pummel me. He began by asking me what I majored in in college. Neurosceince. Then he said to describe why the field was so unique. Ummmm…. We interrupt your regularly scheduled blog post reading with the following Peace Corps Mozambique broadcast: We join our favorite goofy-white kid protagonist navigating his way through Struggle City at the intersection of something hard to explain with minimal Portuguese knowledge while trying to avoid a head on collision with the semi-truck of utter failure… Nonetheless, the results came in and, though I was certain I was run over by said semi truck of utter failure, I passed my language exam. (Can you say RE-LIEVED?)

Lastly, the good! I got to go to an orphanage for half a day to learn about informal and non formal education techniques. We taught the kids probably the worst translated version of the Hokey-Pokey in the history of existence. But, they loved it! Also, they shared some of their sing-song games with us, and I must say some of them really touched my heart. They incorporated giving hugs and bowing out of respect to one another as integral parts of some of their songs. It felt like such an open and welcoming environment.

That day, I was the first pick in soccer! At last, I was finally being recognized as the paragon of soccer prowess…. Wrong! They chose me because I was the biggest and could take up more space in the goal making it harder for the other team to score… oh well. It was a good time either way.

The most tender part of the day for me came at breakfast time. All of the kids sat aligned in rows to receive their portion of the meal. There were two kids with mental disorders who wanted more food after they eagerly scarfed down their serving. It was uplifting to see a multitude of kids offer parts of their meal to these two individuals. It was refreshing for me to see the love and support shown to their peers despite their differences. It appeared that each of the children was valued as a contributing members making up their community. I don’t know that I wrote sufficiently for this experience, but either way it really warmed my heart.

Today also marks the end of my first month in Mozambique!! And, I don’t know what it is, but there is just something about the sense of accomplishment I feel when I can proudly say I have completed one month of this 27 month journey. Finishing one month makes this experience feel that much more attainable when 27 months seemed way to daunting in the past.

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